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This will push the board down into the water with a greater force than gravity. This force will help the board turn faster.
As waves touch the oceanfront, not all of their energy is lost. The wave will usually reflect back to sea at an angle equal to its approach. The reflected waves will form wave interference patterns with the original incoming wave fronts.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
http://www.popsci.com/adam-weiner/article/2008-10/physics-surfing-part-one-dropping
“Introduction to Surfing” – EasyDrop Student Manual, February 2008. – www.easydrop.com
We can use conservation of energy to calculate the approximate speed of a surfer as he hits the bottom of the wave just after take-off:
KEbottom = PEtop + KEtop
Or,
1/2mvs2 = 1/2mvw2 + mgh
Where vs is the speed of the surfer at the bottom of the wave, vw is the speed of the wave and h is the wave height...
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