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Essay text:
But for those who know about it, there is surfing. Although many people may think that surfing is a new trend, it has actually being around for centuries and just like any other sport it also has its story.
There is more than a joyful ride behind surfing, there is also culture and art that makes surfing more than only just a sport but a way of living.
"When surfing Waimea it is essential to have the proper crazed attitude that implies a certain reckless disregard for your personal safety. If you paddle out thinking you are going to get hurt, you will. If you think you can't make the drop, you won't...
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