history of surfing

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Title: history of surfing

Essay Details:

Subject: Miscellaneous

Author: Claude J

Date: March 12, 2015

Level: University

Grade: A

Length: 12 / 3396

Essay text:

The winds flow over the ocean's surface creating friction that spawns chops, pushing up the seas forming perfect bands of open ocean swell. Pushed on by gravitational forces, the swells speed away from the winds that they came from, moving across the deeps until they feel the drag of the shallows near the coast. As the swells rise up out of themselves, they peak, curling into the liquid dreams that we surfers ride (Kampton 4). Surfing is not a sport, and no true surfer would ever claim otherwise. Yes, it requires all the essential elements of a sport; strength, discipline, balance and most of all practice but unlike a sport, surfing isn't a competition...

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