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It creates a sense that he has personal attachment to the community, and that he is part of it. It also emphases that the text will be felt trough.
The text is separated into numerous short paragraphs. By this, he is separating his actions of surfing, step by step. The reader can then orientate in the text more easily. The writer uses many of stylistics devices by which he achieves deep description of the surfer’s emotions.
Using repetition of “some“ in the first paragraph, the reader is given impression that the surfer knows the place very well. Syanesthesia at, for example, “boiling white water“ (3rd paragraph) provokes at the reader thoughts, and is able to image the place more easily...
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